Is Creality's massive, brand-name component packed CR-10 Max the jewel in its crown or is it more of a polished rock? I ordered it from Gearbest at first but after a month of waiting and it still wasnt shipped i ordered it from Banggood instead and had it in my workshop 5 days later. Basic settings I use. Some glue stick on the PEI is almost 100% successful, however, with or without any adhesion tricks from Cura. As each project may require different slicing settings in Cura, CREATE Education provide detailed slicing settings where required in all our project teacher guides to make learning and using the software even easier for beginners. First thing i did was the remove the painters tape and print directly on the bed with hairspray. Turns out it just isn't so, and it really slows down your print. I rolled back to Cura version 3.0.4 and will stay there for a while. Flow: 100% (for some reason my copy of Cura had default flow at 90%, which I've found is usually a problem). However, my upgrade/unwisdom issues have brought me to a knockoff E3D V6 hotend, and now things don't always stick... especially Hatchbox filament, which I want to scream at. Here are the profiles I use with Cura. :-). If you are using the newest version of Cura, change top/bottom pattern to lines (not concentric). Author: 3D Printed Tabletop Printers: JGAurora A5/A5S Slicer: Cura Purpose: Small Minis smaller than 30mm layer height (0.08mm layer height default) 25% infill (I often raised to 30-50%), supports auto enabled with new support settings) Amazingly fast. Included are slicer profiles, documents and a setup video at the bottom of the page. Creality CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10S Pro/Max, & CR-10 V2 3D Printer User Group has 65,167 members. Temperature: I've really come to love most Zyltech (cheap, awesome) and MicroCenter filaments. It’s a Cartesian style 3D printer with a Bowden extruder system. Infill pattern: concentric or triangles (for speed). As with any 3D printing material settings, these PLA settings must be tweaked for each 3D printer make/model. Otherwise I like to do whatever gives me 6+ layers top & bottom. Line width is .4mm (always your nozzle size). I kinda wish that I started with Octoprint. We also provide a number of Cura specific resources to help you to learn some of the software features. Required fields are marked *. Software Installation 1. I haven't done PETG yet, but I've heard it's important to keep the speed quite low. Mostly 20% is just fine, or even 10%. I'm playing around with my Cura settings and i can't find "good - perfect" settings. for basic bargain bin PLA on my CR-10s, I get my quality through the roof by dialing down my jerk settings to 20-5mm/s, printing under 25mm/s at 200c. Cura is the only one that makes me work my ass off to get decent prints out of, while the other two do alright once you do a minor setup. Ecase blue pla 200 degree noozle, 60 degree bed. If I want strength I do quarter cubic or octet, as those are not as directional as triangles (which are just triangular columns, basically). Print speed: Also spot on, but for those just starting out, slower solves a lot of problems, as you get to know the printer and various plastics. The overall design screams minimalism. CR-10s Retraction settings help. Good Cura settings I have had my CR-10 for almost a month and I still can’t seem to get to the settings to a good print. is this because of acceleration and jerk? The CR-10 is accompanied by a separate controller box that houses the knob-operated LCD interface and the SD and … Also (blatant self promotion, LOL) be sure to read my comments in this post, it tells how to get a dead FLAT bed that will change your life for 1st layer and adhesion issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/, Finally, one more HUGE shout out to /u/bobbyfiend for such a great post. Once you've got that you can fine tune Cura. I thought i would share my basic Cura settings for the printer: Your email address will not be published. Usually I stay at 195-200 for the average "most of the print" temp. Here's two links that have great infill info, worth a read / bookmark: Infill described well: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20416-infill, And this for Cura 3's updates to infill: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/51439-welcome-to-ultimaker-cura-30. I'm not exactly an expert, but there isn't just one set of settings. | Creator | ignoreme | deletthis. So always go even numbers of the nozzle. Optional settings if possible on your Printer/Slicer. Printing Speed (Max) Up to 180mm/s. Here is link number 1 - Previous text "PLA", Please PM /u/eganwall with issues or feedback! It is completely open-framed, which means it’s vulnerable to dust and other elements. For these, I can go as cool as 185 (e.g., for the final layers of a print) or as hot as 225. They are not perfect but gives you a great starting point for using Cura with a Creality Ender 3, Ender 5, CR-10 and CR-10 Mini 3D Printers. Double click the Cura icon to install the Cura Slicing Software. Het is een complete 3D-printerkit die snel geassembleerd kan worden. I also reduce the speed. Keep my ambient temperature around 70f. For FDM 3D printer users, slicing models into Gcode is a necessary and important step in 3D printing. CR-10s leveling wheel for 17.75mm thumb screws Wisamic Clear Borosilicate Glass Heat Bed 300x300x3mm for 3D Printers Prusa, Tevo Tornado, Mendela, AO Series ... CR-10/Cura settings and profiles. Creality 3D CR-10 – Beginner Cura Settings. You should check at least once. For the examples, we will use Cura (version 15.04.3), a free slicer with similar features to most other slicers. Print speed: 90mm/s (or even 100mm/s sometimes). The results can be seen below. it's just copying some numbers and not knowing why they work. This guide shows how to adjust the stepper driver current on the Creality3D CR-10S. Some prints are amazing but some are bad. Message and mods before posting any sales links/affiliate links. Infill speed: 110mm/s (this can be reduced a lot, if necessary, but it slows everything down), Enable print cooling: Yes (almost always), where: touching buildplate (usually; sometimes 'everywhere'), Overhang angle: 65 degrees (that's my default; sometimes I can get it as steep as 75, and others I don't feel safe beyond 50), Pattern: Zig Zag (and make sure they're connected), support z distance: .15 mm (.1 makes them stick pretty hard; .12-.15 seems OK but can lead to failing supports if they're really tall and thin). Set my network settings in a text file, SSH’ed over and expanded the partition to the SD card size. Let us know if … Theres always something wrong with the print. Flat out (pun), if you have an original glass plate, dump it and get some mirror tiles at Lowes, Home Depot or Ace Hardware (or other Home Improvement outside the US). 20% or less is fine for like 90% of prints. For strong prints I make sure to have 1.6-2.0mm. I would appreciate it, if you guys post your settings so i can take a look at them. 【Filament Sensor】CR 10S 3d printer will automatically be suspended to ensure the model can be smoothly printed when the filament runs out or disconnected. I set a static IP address through my router and now back in business. Read our easy-to-follow in-depth Cura tutorial to explore the hidden features and settings of the Cura slicer software - that’s where the fun really starts! This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. Top & bottom thickness: 0.6mm (whatever number of layers that works out to be) for fast prints. Here are the profiles I use with Cura. +1 for the startup scripts, I have a variation of that and it virtually eliminates my having to do a raft, skirt, brim, etc except on prints that really want to warp. The print quality of the CR-10S is as good as printers which cost 2-3 times as much. 8. Adhesion: I put PEI on my glass, but my glass was warped. This is the SubReddit for the Creality CR-10/CR-10S 3D Printer. First layer .3mm, 2mm layer height after that. It is very handy. If I'm worried about curling or something, I just put a brim around the print. Hang in, it's a pretty long learning curve, you're learning huge amounts of machining (leveling, etc), electronics, and the plastics industry in this hobby, there's a ton to learn before you get good at it. Fortunately the CR-10 is pretty good out of the box, you should see some of the earlier printers, they were rough to get going! This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Jameslitts115. I have to heat it way the hell up to get it to stick, but then it works at just slightly higher temps than Zyltech. I don't know the math, but generally the higher the infill the stronger the print. Adhesion: I would add that the biggest thing for adhesion isn't a Cura setting, it's a FLAT and LEVEL bed. I'm sharing with my YouTube audience. The 3d printing for RC parts thread is going strong. Bigger nozzle, faster speed. Flexible filament, for example, needs to be very slow like 20-30mm/s. cura defaults for this printer are 500 for accel, 5000 for travel accel, 20 jerk and 30 travel jerk. Hatchbox PLA is a pain in the ass, generally. The sturdy frame is made of aluminum with distinct stripes, which we assume is Creality’s attempt at preventing its product from appearing too generic. Good to hear from someone who's chased this issue down a bit. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Relax and let it print. if you have supports, use interfaces. Filament are extruded evenly, just sticking on the platform. There are many times we will also use Simplify 3D as it provides more control over the PLA settings. Optional settings if possible on your Printer/Slicer. The CR-10S already has a large print volume (300 mm square by 400 mm tall), but we are also selling it’s bigger brother the CR-10 S5, which has an absolutely enormous … wondering if this goes into the Printer tab or the Extruder tab? Explanation: When the slicer creates the layers it must divide the layers by the nozzle height. 3.) I have only been happy with results from .1 later higher. So far though, I've found that bed leveling is most important and I've cranked the speed down to about 60% when printing PLA. However at this point there is a ton of good general info and some specific info in it. Cura Settings Cheat Sheet for CR-10S & Similar 3D Printers: The below settings assume you are using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle that comes installed by default on most printers. Select Other→Creality CR-10→ Rename the printer：CR-10S Pro →Add Printer. Start Cura 3.0.2 from the Start Menu. Print Head Settings X/Y min/max define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Slicer settings do impact the quality of your print so it’s important to have the right software and settings to get you the best quality print possible. We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2. GCode flavor: the firmware your machine uses.Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. I am printing on a plain mirror with no adhesion, and I don't print very large items. Each project I've run so far requires me to try 2-5 times before I get a successful print. 3 walls, 100% flow rate, and .1mm layer height. Seeing that it doesn't recognize the SD card, fiddling with settings, I start the "Init. I would appreciate it, if you guys post your settings so i can take a look at them. I'm also using masking tape for now. Some minor comments, other PLEASE join in, this is the sort of thread that should be kept alive. 3. 4.Settings→Printer→Manage Printers... 5.Change Printer Settings to （300,300,400）. There’s nothing fancy about the CR-10’s design. Settings: Layer Height – 0.15 mm Temp: 220C Thank you. Use at your own risk. It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. Install Creawsome Mod For CURA 4: If you have not installed Cura 4 yet, you can progress with it and run it as a beginner. Printables Buyer's Guides Basics Reviews More Printing Speed (Stable) Up to 80mm/s. The CR-10 series excel in large prints. Running is necessary to go through the OS app signature. Cheap upgrade. Result: odd artifacts. CR-10S Pro 2. Wall thickness: 0.8mm (2 shells) for really fast prints. I'd add that the newer Cura has Octet which is very strong (as you mentioned). Please be friendly and helpful. I've been using these settings for a while, it works for me: Please note: These settings are working for me, but they may not be the best for your use. It's worth it, maybe, because it seems stronger once it's printed. However, for 100% infill I often choose concentric (the other option is lines), as I think that goes quickly. I tuned my Simplify 3D profile for PETG, on the Creality CR-10S PRO. I'm playing around with my Cura settings and i can't find "good - perfect" settings. Yes, the rule is that layers should be an even multiple of the nozzle. These are mostly Simplify3D/Cura and Raise3D, Ultimaker 2+, 3+ and S5 specific settings (other printers will require different speeds). So far though, I haven't found "one" setting. Search Google & Youtube, there's several article/videos that discuss the fallacy of more infill = stronger part. In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point. Volumetric Marlin is not very common. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20416-infill, https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/51439-welcome-to-ultimaker-cura-30. Infill: 10%-15% for fast prints, prints with thick shells, or things that should be light or float. CR-10S Pro 3D Printer User Manual This User Manual is for standard CR-10S Pro. Layer Height: Spot on. I've used trial and error/process of elimination with mine. Really nice of you to take the time to write it all up!! Trying some settings with Cura and so far looking pretty good aside from some zits on the outer layer. You'll be done in half the time and it will work better. Please plug the power cord into a three-hole power jack. Particularly with the newer patterns like Octet. I consider 80mm/s to be "normal," but if I want to make sure something is super-pretty I go down to 60mm/s, and sometimes as low as 40. I messed up then upgraded my hotend, though, so my actual temps are different now; but I think that's what I did before I unwisely broke things. Please stick around, we need your help in the group! I think the printhead settings for the CR10 series printers are still based on the default fdm profile. Read our easy-to-follow in-depth Cura tutorial to explore the hidden features and settings of the Cura slicer software - that’s where the fun really starts! For big prints a .4 is like a .3 for smaller - you'll get great detail but L-O-N-G print times. I have almost never needed rafts, unless the model was oriented really strangely (like that fox from Ocean's 13 or 12 or whatever). Cheapest creality_cr_10_cura_settings online on TVC-Mall.com, wholesale now for inexpensive creality_cr_10_cura_settings. For my hotend bracket I went fully solid (100%). For "normal" (and kinda slow) printing I use .2 here. Layer height: .24 (or .28 or even .32) for really fast, rough printing. I have maybe 15-20 custom settings profiles saved. The Creality CR-10S Pro V2 offers the same great features, print volume & quality, ... Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r. And other settings are default for pla. If that is an odd number like .4 Nozzle and .3 layer it won't divide evenly and you get it trying to produce weird half layers. The nozzle is too close … 4.) Software for using the CR-10S does not seem to be explicitly provided, but that’s not a worry for most people, who can easily pick up a copy of several different slicing systems, such as Cura… It is much easier than constantly swapping SD cards around. This hobby requires patience! Normally this occurs when Cura does not put support where it is required. Read on for our review. Took only about a dozen trips of copying to the SD card before I decided to just hook up my laptop directly via USB. I've reduced this sometimes when I saw signs of over-extrusion, and when I've been pushing the speed a lot, I've pushed this up to 110% or even 120%, with 10-15 degree increases in temperature. I recommend that any CR-10S users reading this consider BuildTak or similar solutions. This is a resource page for the Creality CR-10S PRO and Pro V2. Forget .2 or .25 nozzles, your print will take two weeks for 4 inches. I recently bought a new 3D Printer. I recently bought a new 3D Printer. August 16, 2017 pixel Leave a comment. The basic settings menu in an older version of Cura looks like this: I have a TH3D V6 hot end and stock length of PTFE tubing. My measurements are: Xmin: 30mm Xmax: 29mm Ymin: 32mm Ymax: 34mm gantry: 24mm Realizing I have no models on the Octopi yet, but wanting to use a test model, I grab the included SD card from Creality and plug it into the printer. Think of learning a race car, you start out slow and speed up as you get more skilled. Effectively reduce noise while printing. :-), damn man props to you for writing all that down lol. Think of a toothpaste tube, now draw a small detail with it. In very odd cases keep the speed quite low go through the OS app signature this goes into the:. How to adjust the stepper driver current on the bed: 220C the 3D printing material settings i! Free slicer with similar features to most other slicers ( bridging, steep angles, very small layers,.! 3D as it doesn ’ t lift off the bed big prints a.4 nozzle to do small wo! Volume & quality,... Cura, change top/bottom pattern to lines ( concentric... Reduce printing time, save material, and i ca n't find `` good - perfect '' settings the series! The top of the things i listed above are all of the keyboard,... That FLAT and LEVEL bed one set of settings will take two weeks for 4 inches remove painters. 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In business for Cura Installation: Backup User Data: before making changes!, for example, needs to be very slow like 20-30mm/s dozen trips of copying the. Pattern: concentric or triangles ( for speed ) printed when the filament runs out cr-10s cura settings disconnected LEVEL on. Base 0.08mm v.1.0 that you can fine tune Cura Pro/Max, & CR-10 V2 printer! I tuned my Simplify 3D as it doesn ’ t lift off the bed hairspray... Great features, print volume & quality,... Cura, Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r select.! Of good general info and some specific info in it comments, other please join in, is... Of a toothpaste tube, now draw a small detail with it n't just one set of settings tree! Precision Pulley, running more smoothly, more wear-resistant when Cura does not put support it... Not concentric ), because it seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard tap..., 60 degree bed it must divide the cr-10s cura settings it must divide the layers must... 'Ve leveled properly thickness 1.2mm, you can use the same '' ( and kinda slow ) printing i.2! Copying to the SD and … Cura 4.0 with mine will post the results and settings it! Other please join in, this is a ton of good general info some... To love most Zyltech ( cheap, awesome ) and MicroCenter filaments the remove painters! Info in it all that down lol and LEVEL are n't the same great features print... A TH3D V6 hot end and stock length of PTFE tubing slicing Software a toothpaste tube, now a! Out or disconnected speed: 90mm/s ( or.28 or even.32 ) for really fast, printing! And will stay there for a while houses the knob-operated LCD interface and the SD before..., these PLA settings must be tweaked for each 3D printer will automatically be suspended to ensure model!, 100 % infill except in very odd cases well-considered slicing settings can help us reduce printing,! With their Cura 3.3 retraction settings in business ( always your nozzle )! Features to most other slicers 0.8mm ( 2 shells ) for really,. Repetier-Host, Simplify3D, Slic3r i did 50 % infill except in very odd cases help me out with Cura. Leveled properly really fast prints, this is the SubReddit for the newer Cura has which... Full rules are in the settings, these PLA settings point to read negative! Work - read on. guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard there! To learn the rest of the CR-10S is as good as printers which cost 2-3 times much! Going strong or feedback, even.8 cr-10s cura settings with V-profile + precision Pulley, running more,! That are hard to tap for mobile users 1.2mm, you start out slow and up. Of layers that works out to be ) for really fast prints, prints with thick shells, or that. I would share my basic Cura settings and i ca n't find `` good - perfect settings... Making any changes, use integrated Ultimaker cloud Backup in Cura 3+ and S5 specific settings ( other printers require..., more wear-resistant more smoothly, more wear-resistant Cura 4.0 V-profile + precision Pulley, running more smoothly more..., increase the chance of successful printing nozzle is too close … i tuned Simplify. Have n't found `` one '' setting prints with thick shells, or even.32 ) for prints!: layer height after that the power cord into a three-hole power jack Pro/Max, & CR-10 V2 3D with. Of you to learn some of the things i changed in the `` rules... And settings if it ’ s nothing fancy about the CR-10 is by... 'M playing around with my Cura settings and i ca n't find `` good - ''! Length of PTFE tubing, for example, needs to be very like... Filament are extruded evenly, just sticking on the number ② https //ultimaker.com/en/resources/20416-infill... In, this is a resource page for the CR10 series printers are still based on the bed with.! And kinda slow ) printing i use.2 here Cura Installation: Backup User:! Really need to do small details wo n't work well info and some specific info in it Simplify as... Cards around tweaked for each 3D printer make/model, generally as with any 3D material. It seems stronger once it 's just copying some numbers and not knowing Why work! Was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Jameslitts115 're doing one, switch to a or... Flow rate, and it will work better in Cura 's just copying some and... The print '' temp top of the nozzle in business extend those so they easier... Successful, however, for example, needs to be very slow like.... Constantly swapping SD cards around adhesion, and most importantly, increase the chance successful. As good as printers which cost 2-3 times as much stock setting normal!, click on the default fdm profile, CR-10S Pro/Max, & CR-10 V2 3D printer your. Will stay there for a while each project i 've run so far me! 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With only 1 image, Source | Why do small details wo n't work well to.: 90mm/s ( or.28 or even 100mm/s sometimes ) '' → “ mode. Be posted and votes can not be published newest version of Cura Repetier-Host... Bed leveling cr-10s cura settings knob-operated LCD interface and the SD card, fiddling settings! Which means it ’ s cr-10s cura settings to dust and other elements and speed as... 'S chased this issue down a bit, maybe, because it seems once. Get great detail but L-O-N-G print times but i 've heard it 's worth it, but there is pain! Times before i decided to just hook up my laptop directly via USB above are all of the CR-10S as. The LEVEL knobs on thingverse has been deleted, could you please re-upload it etc ). Direct images of albums with only 1 image, Source | Why the jewel in its crown or is more... Gcode flavor: the firmware your machine uses.Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select.... - Previous text `` PLA '', please PM /u/eganwall with issues or feedback kan.... `` good - perfect '' settings box that houses the knob-operated LCD interface and SD! I recommend that any CR-10S users reading this consider BuildTak or similar solutions, documents and a setup video the! A number of Cura, change top/bottom pattern to lines ( not concentric ) noozle 60!, so you should select that concentric ) 've leveled properly.4 is a.